This was reinforced by the fact that after brief boiling in water, fabrics changed color irrespective of their structural composition. and Cooksey C.J., 1999. Logan was born at Hutton Hall, Berwickshire, Scotland, on 10 April 1819 and died in Penang on 20 October 1869 (31). Finally a piece of cloth was waved above the pots before the dyeing commenced. Teanglum, A., Teanglum, S., and Saithong, A., 2012. One of the key advantages of the indigosol family of dyes is that they are water-soluble. Men are not only prohibited from participating in the indigo dyeing process, but are forbidden to see or approach the indigo dye pots. Check out our list for saying indigo in different languages. In the 1960s Lüttke et al (1966) chemically stripped down the indigotin molecule, selectively removing the phenyl rings and other components while observing the changes in optical behaviour. From Revenue Farming to State Monopoly: The Political Economy of Taxation in Colonial Indonesia, Java c. 1816-1942, Utrecht University. Its most important property is that it is easily reduced by agents such as sodium hyposulphite into soluble leuco-indigo. The dyed fibrils act as a barrier, preventing the indigo penetrating further into the undyed part of the fibre. A 2009 analysis of the DNA of 321 species of Indigofera (40% of the tribe) found that they all belonged to one of the following four ‘clades’ or sub-families, each one of which has a common genetic ancestor (Schrire et al, 2009): With over 300 species located in Africa, the authors concluded that Indigofera probably originated in that continent in the succulent rather than grassland biome, at a time genetically estimated at around 16 million years ago. Other early finds from the Indus Valley and the Egyptian Nile date to the third millennium BC, while finds from China date to the second millennium BC (Barber 1991, 227). The colour of anthocyanins is determined by a specific part of their molecular structure, known as a chromophore, which absorbs specific bands of visible light. They eventually copied a technique that had been used in India for adding fine indigo detailing to cloth, without the use of a resist. Indigo dyeing is closely linked to female fertility and witchcraft and involves a significant element of danger - to both women and men. In 1830 the new Governor General of the Netherlands Indies, van den Bosch, launched a new cultivation initiative, the Cultuurstelsel, inspired by the British colonial plantation system. 2, issue 1, pp. For example in Lamalera dyers distinguish between light blue, pelã belurã, dark blue, pelã mitã, and very dark blue, kepaõ (Barnes, 1989, 93). Photo Oxidation The concentration of indican in the leaves reaches a maximum just before flowering. (eds), Museum of Ethnography, Basel. Consequently most indigo harvesting and dyeing takes place towards the end of the rainy season (around March), about four or five months after sowing. The Lamaholot (and only the Lamaholot) refer to this over-dyeing process as belapit, which is essential for all bridewealth textiles (Ruth Barnes 1994, 20). Indigo grows well in poor soils so even on the non-volcanic islands it grows lush during the rainy season, which normally lasts from November to March and is more intense in the west. In Eastern Indonesia some species seem to have been deliberately imported from island to island in relatively recent times. However this was geographically constrained by a combination of topographical and ecological factors. In East Sumba ikat designers tend to send their bound yarns to specialist indigo dyers, who require several months to complete the initial dyeing process. Niessen found an elderly Karo Batak dyer in Kampong Kwala who also added palm sugar to her indigo dye bath, along with turmeric, ash and lime (2009, 441). Indigo in the Lesser Sunda Islands Indigo is the largest airline in India accounting for 59.24 per cent domestic market share. ‘Ngada Regency’, in Gift of the Cotton Maiden: textiles of Flores and the Solor Islands, Hamilton, Roy W., (ed. When the indigo is oxidized back into its insoluble form, the attraction between the dye molecules prevails over the attraction between the dye molecules and the substrate, creating dye aggregates. Dyeing was concealed from prying eyes, conducted out of sight in a secluded outbuilding or an isolated part of the yard. 45-48, Leiden. For example, Hibiscus mutabilis has been found to produce a dye with good fastness without the use of mordants (Haddar et al 2014). Nila. Infrared radiation is far less energetic than visible light - too low to excite the electrons in a molecule, but sufficient to excite the vibrational state of a chemical bond. Meaning of indigo. India’s IndiGo has emerged as one of the world’s biggest airlines by capacity, aided by a swift recovery in the domestic aviation market to nearly 80% of pre-pandemic levels and the financial strength to boost market share as rivals struggle. [4] Da das menschliche Auge in diesem Spektralbereich vergleichsweise une… Angew Chem Int Ed Engl, vol. Some of this is then added to the next fresh indigo dye bath to be reduced and to increase the concentration of soluble indigo. Because the excited enol form is still relatively stable, the energy of photo-excitation is relatively low (around 2eV), meaning that the indigoid dyes absorb light in the visible spectrum. Bühler found that on Sumba some dyers also added morinda to the indigo vat, along with the shavings, wood and barks of three unidentified plants. Two matrilineal clans or walla specialise in indigo dyeing. Despite being drought-resistant the plants wilt and lose their leaves during the long dry season from April to October. In solution, natural indigo fades more rapidly than synthetic indigo. They then immerse the cotton skeins for three days before removing them and shaking them in the air. The Ecology of Nusa Tenggara and Maluku, Periplus Editions. 156-163, Yayasan Obor, Bogor. As with many natural dyes, the preparation of indigo is a smelly business. Adolf von Baeyer synthesised indigo from isatin in 1870, and from phenylacetic acid in 1878. 52 and 61. For example, some villages produce a weak alkali lye by filtering their water through an open-weave basket containing the ash from burnt wood or twigs, while others just add lime powder obtained from calcined (burnt) white coral, seashells or sometimes on the non-volcanic islands, burnt limestone. Indirubin is also known as red indigo, but it is actually red-violet. In East Sumba, pregnant women believe that contact with liquid indigo can cause a miscarriage while men believe it can cause disease or madness (Forshee 2001, 32-33). DICTIONARY.COM The most extreme situation occurs in the village of Tenganan Pegringsingan on Bali, where indigo dyeing is considered impure and is therefore totally forbidden. On the other hand, anthocyanins extracted from Hibiscus rosa sinensis flowers has been found to produce a colourfast range of pinks on cotton with the use of a variety of mordants. The combination of these two forms of bonding gives rise to high lattice energies and consequently high thermal stability and low solubility. Lüttke, W., Hermann, H., Klessinger, M., 1966.  Theoretically and experimentally determined properties of the fundamental indigo chromophore. Anthocyanins are important members of the flavonoid group of chemicals, which also include yellow flavanol pigments such as kaempferol. Within the lattice each indigo molecule is hydrogen-bonded to four neighbours, forming a pentamer. This grows both as a shrub, called renggat padi, and as a creeper, called renggat akar (Linggi 1999, 38). Non-destructive near-infra-red analysis for the identification of dyes on textiles, Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, vol. The ash must be from local woody plants that have a high alkali content. Fancy a game? The cocktail was applied with a brush, just like paint, and it turned blue following sufficient exposure to air. Most natural dyes and inorganic mordants bind in acidic solution. Terjemahan untuk 'indigo' dalam kamus bahasa Indonesia gratis dan banyak terjemahan bahasa Indonesia lainnya. In the gas phase, which purely consists of single molecules, indigo is red with a λmax of 540nm. Jansen, P. C. M., and Cardon, D., (eds), 2005. The Portuguese imported some indigo from the East Indies into Antwerp during the late 1500s, and a trial shipment of Javanese indigo was received in Amsterdam in 1694 (Beckmann 1846, 274; Eikema Hommes 2004, 123). In short, dyeing can only take place in a vat or pot containing a soluble reduced form of the dye. Some studies have suggested that only single proton transfer occurs, with only half of the molecule being excited to the enol state. However cellulose is readily degraded by strong acids, hot weak acids and strong alkalis, so preferably needs to be dyed under neutral or weakly alkaline conditions. See more. The dyers emphasise that the yarns must not be immersed into the tannin mixture because this will make them stick together. This is a laborious process, undertaken during the rainy season, each immersion taking two full days after which the yarns must be thoroughly dried before the next immersion. A λmax of 650nm is equivalent to an energy transition of about 1.9eV. Indigo Name Meaning in Malaysian, Indigo makna nama dalam Malaysia - Cari asal kanak-kanak lelaki & perempuan nama-nama dengan makna di Malaysia, Indigo makna dan definisi dengan Nombor bertuah Indigo. It has been suggested that this is because in solution, impurities reduce the size of indigo micro-aggregates (Novotná et al 2003). Extracted in microscopic quantities from the glands of predatory sea snails such as Murex trunculus and Murex brandaries, it was the most precious dyestuff in antiquity. Intra- and inter-molecular hydrogen bonding are the reasons why indigotin is so stable to temperature and has such a relatively high boiling point, reported as 390 to 392°C. The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing: Traditional Recipes for Modern Use, University of Tennessee Press, Knoxville. Some use a mixture of both. Finally, after thoroughly wringing the handkerchief, dry and iron. All of these species are leguminous nitrogen-fixing herbs, sub-shrubs and shrubs with pinnate blue-green leaves and dark pink to purple pea-like flowers. Indigo is one of the most light-stable natural organic textile dyes. Whereas the latter inserted a prominent white band in their men’s wrappers, the Rotinese inserted a pure black band instead. Die farbmetrischen Koordinaten sind hexadezimal #00416A, RGB =(0, 65, 106), HSV = (203, 100, 42). Heating broke down the larger aggregates into small aggregates, creating a bluer colour. Yet one only has to visit the region to observe that several varieties occur on each island, some apparently endemic and others introduced. To obtain a true black, the dyers on Ilé Api finish their deepest indigo-dyed yarns by treating them with a cocktail of tannins. Indigotin is a poor absorber of near-infra-red radiation, but does absorb infrared at specific longer wavelengths. It was only much later, in the mid-nineteenth century, that the Dutch exported significant quantities of indigo from their newly created plantations in Java. Indigo is not a naturally occurring dye. It adheres to the cotton as a result of weak hydrogen-bonding and this means that the indigo can be removed by abrasion or repeated washing. Synthetic indigo - indigotin - was developed in Germany and launched commercially in 1897. Furthermore as the pH of the dye bath is reduced from 13.5 to 11, cotton yarn becomes progressively more and more ring dyed (Etters 1995). The use of indigo was likewise forbidden in France from 1596 to 1669, but was later repealed under Louis XIII (Rhind 1841, 500). On this grading scale, each level takes roughly twice as long to fade as the preceding level. Each consortium member will have spectrum ownership providing the ability to independently take advantage of future technology advancements and … High pH not only ionises the indigo, replacing the monophenolic form of ionic leuco-indigo with the less substantive diphenolic ionic form, but also the cellulose. Even so it only binds to cotton loosely, so many repeat dye immersions are required to build up a deep blue colour. The concept of indigo children gained popular interest with the publication of a series of books in the late 1990s and the release of several films in the following decade. It has been estimated that in 1900 dyers obtained 7kg of pure indigo from 3,700kg of fresh Indigofera tinctoria leaf, a yield of 0.2% (John 2009: 118). Musschenbroek, S. C. I, W., 1877. Pin It. The colour of dyed indigo depends significantly on the fibres used in the textile substrate. This careful drying is essential because the cotton yarns are easily broken if they have been left in a wet condition for a long time. One explanation is that leuco-indigo is strongly attracted to a fabric’s polar functional groups by a combination of hydrogen-bonding, ionic, polar and nonpolar interactions (Cooksey and Sinclair 2005). ‘Indigo was also a significant earner of Chinese silver, but its replacement by synthetic Prussian blue brought the indigo business to a disastrous end.’ ‘Its blue colorant is chemically identical to indigo made from plants of the genus Indigofera, cultivated in Asia.’ Blue Plant Pigments and Indigo deciduous subshrub of southeastern Asia having pinnate leaves and clusters of red or … A Colourful History: The Evolution of Indigoids, in Progress in the Chemistry of Organic Natural Products 99, Springer. Gender. When cotton fibres are dyed with indigo, only the outermost fibrils of the fibre take up the dye and the core remains white. Indigofera also contains glucosides of kaemferol, a pre-cursor of the yellow colorant kaemferol, a flavonoid that is widely distributed in the plant kingdom. However, the relationship becomes self-limiting - as the concentration increases it becomes harder and harder to raise the colour yield (Holbert 2011, 64). He reported its chemical structure in 1883. For example in southwest Sarawak the women of Saribas region (Betang Division) obtain their indigo from Indigofera (tarum). De nuttige planten van Nederlandsch Indie, pp. However they will not tolerate shade. Sources of Indigo IR spectra normally show the percentage of IR transmittance against wavelength measured in terms of wavenumber – the number of waves in one centimetre of length. It was found that smaller aggregates reflect blue light, and larger aggregates reflect red. However some species show adaptations for dispersal by wind. Other contaminants include various flavonoids and possibly cis-indigo and brown isoindigo. In West Sumba, wood shavings and unidentified tree barks were added, while on Roti one dyer added the barks of mangrove, Peltophorum pterocarpum and Schleichera oleosa (Bühler, 1939, 87). Woad, Isatis tinctoria, contains two precursors of indigo, 80% in the form of isatan B and 20% in the form of indican (Epstien et al 1967). Details of the indigo dyeing process vary from place to place, depending on local traditions and ecology. ... meaning places like London, where it has slots, are out. Generally cotton is first dyed with indigo and secondly with morinda but there are exceptions. The fermentation process depends on an alkali-loving bacterium that comes from the indigo plant itself and produces an enzyme that turns the indican into soluble indigo-white. Hofmann-de Keijzer, R.; and van Bommel, M. R., 2005. In the solid state  X-ray structure analysis shows that each indigo molecule is attached to four others, whereas in crystalline indigo the indigo pentamers are also π-stacked. Tethyan, restricted to arid lowland climates, as well as to the succulent biome in Africa. The workers concluded that for museum displays in low light, only indigo on wool, madder on cotton and a couple of other dyes would survive long exposure. Indigo dudes are considered to be freethinkers with profound insight into the human condition and an ability to see the truth clearly. Likewise the Maya and Aztecs may have used Maya Blue, a mixture of indigo and palygorskite clay, for millennia - although the earliest known samples date from the period 300 BC to 300 AD (Pascual et al 2009). Indigoid dyes do not occur in nature, although their precursors do – the indigotin precursors indican, isatan A and isatan B in the plant world, and the Tyrian purple precursor tyrindoxyl sulphate in the animal world. As the dye is applied to the fabric, the molecules interact with the fabric and with each other. In the presence of oxygen the leuco-indigo is oxidised into the blue indigotin, which is insoluble in water and therefore precipitates on the surface of the fibres. life on earth. Blues and carmines of indigo: a practical treatise on the fabrication of every commercial product derived from indigo, H. C. Baird, Philadelphia. Name. The excited state almost instantly reverts back to the normal state, dissipating the energy of photo-excitation. Indonesian Translation. Yet while hundreds of indigoid dyes have been synthesised and evaluated only a few have gained commercial importance, mostly in the form of halogenated, thionated and sulphonated indigos: disodium 2,2’-bi-indol-3,3’-diol, bis-sulphate, 5,5’-indigo disulphonic acid sodium salt, 3(2H)-benzofuranone, 2-(3-oxo-2(3H)-  benzofuranylidene)-[D2,2'(3H,3'H)-bi-benzofuran]-3,  3'-dione, 2-(3-oxobenzo[b]thien-2(3H)-ylidene)  benzo[b]thiophene-3(2H)-one, benzo[b]selenophen-3(2H)-one, Because its properties were technically inferior to high performance blue vat dyes such as indanthrone, its use declined during the first half of the twentieth century, only coming back into fashion during the 1960s. Measured in terms of the 1990 British Standard 1009 for light-fastness (1 = very poor light fastness; 8 = very high), fading is rated at level 4 on cotton and level 4-5 on wool. So many who has had the courage to show up in session with their grief speak of that all too familiar and common thread...that they are unable to fully give voice to their grief, that they feel socially obliged to "move on" and to let go of the one they have lost. Indican was first isolated from Polygonum tinctorium by Schunk in 1855, with Marchlewski and Radcliffe revealing its structure in 1898. There it is sewn in the fields following the maize harvest towards the end of the dry season so that it can be cropped later in the rainy season. 27, no.2, pp. The ancient Jews called it tekhelet, a purple dye mentioned numerous times in the Hebrew Bible. In parts of Timor they increase the alkalinity by adding the leaves of Jatropha curcas (Cunningham et al, 2014, 95). Indigo is one of the oldest colouring agents known to man. This is because it is photo-oxidised into yellow-coloured isatin, which is relatively colourless compared to indigo blue. It was used extensively throughout Indonesia, including the Lesser Sunda Islands, for dyeing cotton - in the … This means that increased colour depth cannot be achieved solely by increasing dye concentration. On the other hand, fabrics with exceptionally distinct chemical structures - such as cotton and polypropylene - dye with almost identical indigo shades. Montagner, Crista; Bacci, Mauro; Bracci, Susanna; Freeman, Rachel; and Piccolo, Marcello, 2011. India’s IndiGo has emerged as one of the world’s biggest airlines by capacity, helped by a swift recovery in the domestic aviation market to nearly 80 per cent of pre-pandemic levels and the financial strength to … Of the most blessed attributes of the Indigo Children is their integrity. Of the seven ships of van Dieman’s fleet that arrived in Holland from the East Indies in 1631, all were carrying indigo – a total of 165 tonnes – all sourced on the return voyage from ports in Gujarat and West Africa (Beckmann 1823, 323). In nonpolar solvents it is likely that intra-molecular hydrogen bonds are favoured, encouraging the formation of molecular aggregates. The Origin and Distribution of Indigofera Colors. Oxidising agents such as chlorine and hydrogen peroxide convert it into isatin. Indigo is clearly more stable on animal fibres. It is hard to find scientific comparisons between naturally fermented and synthetic indigo. To study why the colour of bromoindigo changes with temperature (thermochromicity) carbon nanotubes were used as surrogate fibres and the size of the dye aggregates were measured using a transmission electron microscope. Indigo not only satisfies that requirement, but also has no need for a mordant. However no mechanism was suggested as to how the composition of different fibres should influence micro-aggregate size. The third colorant that appears in the indigo dye bath is kaemferol, a phenolic dye sometimes known as indigo yellow: If pre-prepared indigo paste is added to the dye bath the indigotin must first be reduced by alkaline fermentation (or a reducing agent such as sodium dithionite) into the soluble leuco-indigo. π-π interactions are not yet fully understood, but arise from the attractive force between the rings of adjacent aromatic organic molecules. Indigo can be derived from a wide range of plant species. Kajitani, Nobuko, 1980. Home. After developing a better industrial synthesis from cinnamic acid, obtained from coal tar and nitric acid, von Baeyer sold his patent to BASF who began producing synthetic indigo commercially in 1897. indigo translate: indygo. This gives it good wash-fastness. On the other hand an indigo-dyed cotton skirt from the Ngada region of Flores and an indigo-dyed batik from Java showed two of the lowest levels of fading. This completely depends upon the chemical composition and physical state of the material concerned. TLC and HPLC Analysis of Red and Violet Cotton Yarns of Indonesian Textiles, Dyes in History and Archaeology, vol. After the eighth dip the change in depth of shade significantly decreases although still continues to darken (Chong et al 1995, Xin 2000). xxvi, issue 1, pp. As part of this initiative the Dutch introduced both Natal and Guatemala indigo into Java (Fokkens 1910, 45-48). Thus for indigotin, X and Y are both amino (NH) groups; for oxindigo they are oxygen atoms; for thioindigo they are sulphur atoms; and for selenoindigo they are selenium atoms. This suggests that other unidentified factors may be involved in the photo-oxidation of indigo. Under British rule Raffles introduced a system of land tax, which was reformulated following the restoration of Dutch control in 1816. To make matters worse, anthocyanins bond poorly to cellulose cotton fibres which, unlike animal-based protein fibres, contain no acidic or basic functional groups (Séquin 2012, 172). Felicia, F. A., and Muthulingham, M., 2012. To explain this dichotomy it has been proposed that while monomers may attach to the fibres at low dye concentrations, dimers and trimers are formed at higher concentrations (Clark and Cooksey 1999). Physical and Chemical Properties of Indigotin If a person dies a 'bad death', a full pot of indigo must be poured over the grave, the blue dye 'fixing' them in the grave and preventing their soul from wandering (Fox 1973, 360). At a given pH, dye take-up increases with the increasing concentration of indigo in the dye bath. IndiGo is India’s fastest growing airline since it commenced operations in 2006, and has firm plans to add more destinations to its network in India and abroad. Iets over de inlandsche wijze van katoen-verven (rood-verven, bruinverven, blauwverven, enz.) Surprisingly the only satisfatory long-lasting natural blue dye is indigo. The emergence of lowland grassland varieties, which were weed-like and invasive, eventually resulted in its global dispersal. On Roti there are at least two varieties of indigo – Rotinese indigo (tau do Lote) and Dutch indigo (tau do Olana), the former being an endemic variety adapted to the dry climate with woody stems and very small leaves, the latter introduced by the Dutch (Fox, 1980, 43). A local root was added to repel insects and worms from the fermentation (Warming and Gaworski, 1981, 68). It found that a cluster of 1-3 molecules of 6-bromoindigo was red, a cluster of 4 molecules was purple and a cluster of more than 6 molecules was dark blue (Ajiki, 2014). What does indigo mean? There are six major chromophores, which are all anthocyanidins with a very similar conjugated polycyclic structure whose names betray their floral origin – pelargonidin, cyanidin, peonidin, delphinidin, petunidin, and malvidin (Grotewold 2007, 155). They also add a little lime powder. It is clear that natural indigo dye not only contains indigotin, but also indirubin, kaemferol and other flavonoids, and possibly minor amounts of cis-indigo and brown isoindigo. At the end of the process most of the unbound yarns will be dark blue apart from the light blue sections that have only been dyed twice. Integrity. Once the mixture has cooled, a small amount is scooped into a plastic mug and the indigo-dyed yarns are laid on an old rice sack. They are then steeped in cold water for a day or two in a handmade clay pot or plastic bucket, after which the hard parts of the plants are removed. A strictly held secret, passed on from mother to daughter Ann Tappe further. 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